遊訪意大利釀酒家族 Knowing Italy through Great Winemaking families

foto murialdo i colori dell'autunno in langa

Navigating Italy promises a vinous trip where one gets to hear household gossips of great Italian winemaking families and enjoy the variety show put up by talented modernist and traditionalist winemakers. To understand and explore Italy as a wine region, unlike France, specifically Bordeaux, it is not about prices or classifications. A great way to start is to the families. Italy is first and foremost all about families and traditions. A short walk down the path of time and one can outline the landscape of Italian wines by looking at what great Italian winemaking families have been doing over the past 50 years. As drinkers we are blessed with numerous chances to revere the essence of time, captured and preserved in flagship wines bottled by Italy’s formidable families.

尋訪意大利美酒的旅程上,敢保証每位旅人都會不經意間聽到許多關於各個意大利釀酒家族的家常閒話。八卦東西以外,意大利酒最引人入勝的,大概是一班同樣才華洋溢的創新派和傳統派意大利釀酒師為酒客上演的酒色綜藝秀。這場綜藝秀,聞的是家族成員釀酒哲學的變遷,喝的是意大利本地品種千變萬化的風味。想了解及探索意大利這個釀酒大國,需先明瞭意大利跟法國,特別是波爾多酒區的不同。大部分意大利酒並不能基於價格及各類分級來解讀他們的風格、斷定他們的質素。其中一個理解意大利酒的方向,是從家族成員主理釀酒的莊戶入手。意大利酒,一重家族,二重傳統。穿越時空看看意大利過去五十年三五釀酒家族的作為,便能大概了解意大利酒的風格及發展。每個家族的頂級名釀,讓酒客嚐到的不僅是酒香醇沫,還有釀酒師擷取自不同時代,年華的味道。

長相思之戀

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Sauvignon Blanc 的中文名字譯作長相思,典故不詳,這個品種如何沾上「愁」滋味,難明。古人云酒入愁腸,化作相思淚;今日性情中人把杯暢飲,是白酒的酸,還是紅酒的澀,引愁入腸?一口 Sauvignon Blanc 背後的一腔相思,是醉翁一廂情願的濫殤,還是詩意滿瀉的詮譯?今天探索來自全球著名產區的 Sauvignon Blanc 葡萄酒,他們的味道、產區的風土特色、釀造風格如何演繹相思之酸甜。

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