Etna Rosso:我為火山灰著迷

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位於意大利西西里島東北部的Mount Etna,是個一百萬歲的火山,亦是歐洲最大和最活躍的火山。世代面對Mount Etna炙熱火爆的脾性,西西里島民看來沒半點怯意。今日, 百分之二十五西西里島民落戶Mount Etna火山山腳。在400多至1100米的山腰處,另有一群平均扎根50年以上的原居「藤」。Etna Rosso法定產區的紅酒,以Nerello Mascalese為主要混釀成份,把火山灰的礦物香,傳譯於酒液之中。

遊訪意大利釀酒家族 Knowing Italy through Great Winemaking families

foto murialdo i colori dell'autunno in langa

Navigating Italy promises a vinous trip where one gets to hear household gossips of great Italian winemaking families and enjoy the variety show put up by talented modernist and traditionalist winemakers. To understand and explore Italy as a wine region, unlike France, specifically Bordeaux, it is not about prices or classifications. A great way to start is to the families. Italy is first and foremost all about families and traditions. A short walk down the path of time and one can outline the landscape of Italian wines by looking at what great Italian winemaking families have been doing over the past 50 years. As drinkers we are blessed with numerous chances to revere the essence of time, captured and preserved in flagship wines bottled by Italy’s formidable families.

尋訪意大利美酒的旅程上,敢保証每位旅人都會不經意間聽到許多關於各個意大利釀酒家族的家常閒話。八卦東西以外,意大利酒最引人入勝的,大概是一班同樣才華洋溢的創新派和傳統派意大利釀酒師為酒客上演的酒色綜藝秀。這場綜藝秀,聞的是家族成員釀酒哲學的變遷,喝的是意大利本地品種千變萬化的風味。想了解及探索意大利這個釀酒大國,需先明瞭意大利跟法國,特別是波爾多酒區的不同。大部分意大利酒並不能基於價格及各類分級來解讀他們的風格、斷定他們的質素。其中一個理解意大利酒的方向,是從家族成員主理釀酒的莊戶入手。意大利酒,一重家族,二重傳統。穿越時空看看意大利過去五十年三五釀酒家族的作為,便能大概了解意大利酒的風格及發展。每個家族的頂級名釀,讓酒客嚐到的不僅是酒香醇沫,還有釀酒師擷取自不同時代,年華的味道。

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